F.A.Q Call Us Now Tel Number 01482 291992
This section contains answers to frequently asked toilet questions. It is meant by no means to be the quick answer to your problems, only an immediate resource for many common problems.
If you need additional advice or clarification of the advice given on this page, please send us an email with your question to email@example.com or use our contact us button on the Home Page. Please do not forget to indicate what brand of toilet you have, and any other details that may be important.
My toilet does not flush right?
Syphon-Side Lever or Front Lever Toilets
If your toilet has a syphon and a Lever and it is not flushing or not working properly, make sure that the toilet hook is attached (C Link). It is most likely that the Syphon Seal (Film) that creates the Vacuum and Suction has punctured or has a Lime Scale build up on it and needs replacing, you can either buy the Universal Syphon Repair kit http://www.mytoiletspares.co.uk/ideal-standard-e948967-unversable-syphon-repair-kit-305-p.asp
or a new Syphon Universal Syphon that works with most of Ideal Standard and Armitage shank Toilets http://www.mytoiletspares.co.uk/ideal-standard-universal-syphon-with-a-spacer-355270d--between-8inch-and-85inch-sv97267-297-p.asp
Nine out of 10 this mostly resolves the problem.
How do I replace my Toilet Syphon
To take the toilet syphon off, you will need to firstly unscrew the toilet cistern and undo the bolts underneath, not forgetting to turn the mains water stopcock off and disconnecting water supply and overflow. If you have a donut washer and back plate, it is also advisable to replace.
Dual Flush Valve (Push Button Syphon)
Your Toilet tank consist of two basic assemblages, the fill valve (Inlet Valve and the flush valve). A Flush Valve, is the component inside the toilet tank that seals off the flow of water when the toilet is not in use. Over time, the flush valve becomes clogged with mineral deposits or Lime Scale, which allows water to leak from the tank. This leak wastes water, and should be repaired. Many people simply replace leaky flush valves, but there is a cheap and easy way to repair the existing one so that it forms a tight seal. Click on Flush Valve Seal this Seal is Universal to all Ideal Standard and Armitage Shank Dual Flush Push Button Toilets apart from the ones with Twico Flush Valve in case you want to replace the Flush Valve then please Contact us for help on 01482823031 or through our website
My toilet runs will not shut off? (Stop Running)
Be it Syphonic (Lever) or Dual Flush (Push Button) the common problem is the Inlet Valve Diaphragm kit, 9 out of 10 this resolves the problem or you can buy the Flush Valve Seal and the Service kit and this should resolve the issue.
Humidity in a bathroom can create tank sweat, install a tank liner and find a way to remove the moisture out of the air.
Adjusting a Poorly Flushing Toilet?
Many people find themselves needing to flush twice because of a poorly flushing toilet. Instead of calling an expensive plumber to come and fix the problem, this is actually a project that you can handle yourself, with a little help from www.mytoiletspares.co.uk Learn to adjust the water level, open the shut-off valve and clear obstructions. Calling for a local plumber should be a last resort, if the problem persists after following all of the given instructions.
Cistern fills with water very slowly - usually it should take about 2 minutes.
This problem is usually associated with water supply or the valve which controls the water flow into the cistern, suggested causes are:
If the cistern has always been slow to refill and the cistern is fed from a water tank, the problem is probably due to the wrong type of valve nozzle being fitted. Two nozzles are usually supplied with cistern valves, one for where the valve is fed from a header tank, the other (with a smaller hole) for where the valve is fed directly from the water mains - if the mains type of nozzle was fitted at installation, the cistern will take a long time to fill.
If the problem is new or has gradually worsened it could be:
Low pressure in the water pipe to the cistern - this could be a valve which has not been fully opened or an obstruction in a valve or pipe. Check all the valves in the pipe run, closing and then reopening each valve may clear any obstruction.
The valve on the cistern may have become partially blocked by much or scale in the water supply. To clean the valve, turn off the water supply and then dismantle and clean the valve.
Flush does not clear pan:
When a cistern flash fails to clear the pan, the problem is likely to be one of the following, Only a half cistern of water has been flushed - this applies where the cistern is a 'half and full flush' type. If the cistern is this type, check to ensure that everyone using it is aware of how to use it correctly, i.e. the handle needs to be held down during the flush to obtain a full flush.
The level of the water inside the cistern may be low, it should be about 12mm (half inch) below the overflow pipe. The higher it is, the more water will be flushed down when the handle is operated thus increasing the chance of cleaning the pan. If necessary, raise the water level by adjusting the float as previously described for cisterns not flushing properly.
There may be a problem with the pipe from the cistern to the pan - check that it joins the pan squarely and that it is not obstructed. Also check that the rim of the pan is level side to side and back to front using a spirit level. The water entering the pan should run equally from around the rim.
This is only likely to be the problem where the cistern/pan has just been installed or replaced.
Water coming out of the cistern overflow:
This problem usually indicates a fault with the ball valve or the actual float which controls the water going into the cistern, probable causes include:
A worn valve washer - this will stop the valve completely shutting off the water inflow, it may take a period of time (overnight or even days) for a slight leakage at the valve to raise the water level enough to overflow. It may be that normal use will 'hide' the problem and it may only become apparent after the cistern has been left unflushed for a long period. If you return from holiday and find the overflow dripping, don't panic, returning to normal use will appear to make the problem go away. On most types of valves, a new washer can be fitted, see illustrated guide for replacing the washer in a slide valve.
Water level set too high, the problem will probably have existed ever since the valve/float was last adjusted.
The water inside the cistern should be about 12mm (half inch) below the level of the overflow - if the water level has been set too high, the excess will go out of the overflow pipe. The level of the water should be reduced as described above - to lower the water level, the float needs to be adjusted down, which may be hard with the float supported by the water, so flush the cistern to make adjusting the float easier and check the water level after the cistern has refilled.
If the cistern is fed directly from the mains, the incorrect type of valve nozzle could be fitted in the valve - the problem will have always existed since the valve was fitted.
The valve may not be shutting off completely the water supply if a tank type valve nozzle was installed rather than a direct mains type nozzle - this has a smaller hole.
The movement of the float, or arm, could be restricted inside the cistern (possibly rubbing on the side of the cistern or the syphon assembly) this can prevent the valve from shutting off properly - where a solid brass arm connects the float to the valve, the arm can usually be bent sideways so that the arm and float move freely, where the float arm is plastic, it may need to be reassembled.
The float could be damaged (i.e. leaking) so that it sinks lower in the water than originally - a replacement float will overcome the problem, spherical float are usually easily to find and fit, replacement non-spherical floats may be harder to locate.